Incredible moment that captures how heavy this wave breaks.
Wave sucks up so hard that the wall ends up becoming the entire wave. Only experienced waterman can proceed in conditions such. The wave regulates itself from other humans. And if we do see others I share the dangers of this location.
It can be flat and calm one second. The next it is straight up Chaos!
My body is scorched and beat down today. Yesterday was a long one. I went in the ocean captured art in my element. Called Clark said get down here and we put in work!
Heading back out after a tiny nap!
New Era