When the tides shift it gets heavier.
Waves are not meant to be ridden nor photographed when tide drops.
The trench I am in to capture this photo gives me maybe two seconds max to get my housing up. Meaning I take the pic and duck under so quick.
If not I would get destroyed by the wave. Most likely ending in some serious body wounds. Tossing it all on the Line is the only way I know. And this wave was crazy. Huge yet beautiful in its own way.
Wow I feel like a Semi ran me over after two straight days of Shorebreak
New Era Series