He was holding on for glory.
From toes off the side of his board to making the greatest wave of the hour. Going from a 1 to a 10. That's how the Pipeline can be at times.
Surfing big waves take skill. But riding barrels like this takes much more. He went from barley falling off from the Spit... To making it with a giant smile.
Purity in Surfing has no Limits of joy. No boundaries just battling the wave.
JMV ART